Day Trip - Connemara
Stops include - Aughnanure Castle, Oughterard Village,
Quiet Man Cottage and Bridge, Clifden, Sky Road, Clifden
Castle, Kylemore Abbey, Recess Pass.
NOTE: The N59 is the 50 mile long main road
that runs through the Connemara region of County Galway
from Galway City to Clifden town. It continues on from
Clifden to Westport, County Mayo through another region
of County Galway called Joyce Country. Today's journey
will be an exploration of Connemara.
From Galway City, join the N59 driving northwest towards
Clifden. You will pass through the villages of Moycullen,
Oughterard, Maam Cross and Recess before reaching Clifden.
Your first stop is Aughnanure Castle in Oughterard.
About 9 miles from Moycullen you will see the sign for
the Ardnasilla Golf Club and Aughnanure Castle on your
right at a 3-way junction. Turn right and follow the
signs for the castle.
Allow 60 minutes for this site.
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Aughnanure Castle was built in the
15th century by the one time powerful ruling clan,
the O'Flarehty's. The most prominent feature of
this site is the tower keep. The entire property
has some unusual features that you won't find in
many Irish castles. One of which is the secret room,
which is located in the floor between the lord's
chamber on the top floor and the great hall below.
Visiting the lord's chamber you will notice an enclosure
on the side of the room that looks like a garderobe,
medieval toilet. On closer inspection you will note
that there is a large hole in the floor where prisoners
would have been "deposited". It's quite
possible that this room was used as a garderobe |
and prisoners below would have been the recipient of...well...last
night's dinner! The exact use of the secret room is unknown,
especially in that it's in the lord's chamber, but this
is one possibility.
Another unusual feature of this property are the rare double bawn walls. Between
the walls is the remains of a boat slip that was used
during the castle's occupation. Trade on Lough Corrib
was common in those days. Ships would pass through Galway
Harbor and into the lake and eventually to the castle.
You will also note the remains of one of the guard
towers close to the castle entrance. This is a fine
example of the others that would have surrounded this
keep on both walls.
Inside the ground floor of the keep you will see an
artists representation of what this site looked like
during the peak of activity.
Return to the N59 and turn right to continue your journey.
You will pass through the village of Oughterard now,
the "Gateway to Connemara". This is a quaint
and quiet village that boasts some of he finest food
in the region. Stop into the Old Thatch Pub for a real
traditional pub experience, or to Flaherty's Restaurant
to sample the steamed mussels and Guinness.
Continue through Oughterard on the N59. You will pass
the Moy River and Falls on your left as you leave the
village.
Next you will pass through Maam Cross where you can
stop to see a replica of the Quiet Man Cottage. This
is a thatched traditional cottage that is set up as
in the film. The Quiet Man was filmed in many locations
around Connemara. Your next stop is the Quiet Man Bridge.
Allow 15 minutes for each stop.
Continue on the N59 towards Clifden and you will see
a small sign for the Quiet Man Bridge on your left.
This is a semi private road but you can cross over the
bridge and park on the side of the road to see the bridge.
This bridge was the scene where John Wayne's character,
Sean Thornton, stopped with Mickaleen Og and the horse
and cart to look out to White O'Morn Cottage at the
beginning of the movie.
Continue up the N59 and you will come into Clifden
town. Clifden was a planned town, meaning that it was
designed with deliberation. You will see this in the
triangular shape of the town, which is on a one-way
traffic system . As you enter, turn left to join the
main route around the town. At the first junction turn
right and follow this road to the "town center".
Stay in the left lane as you approach the top of the
road. You will see the sign for the Sky Road and will
turn left to proceed.
NOTE: If you wish to see the town, do so now
as you will not be coming back this direction. Allow
1-2 hours.
Allow 1 hour for the castle trek, or 15 minutes on
Sky Road alone.
The Sky Road is a small peninsula that juts out from
Clifden. This is a very scenic but short drive. About
one mile from Clifden you will see a stone gatehouse
on your left. Park here and get out to stretch your
legs if you wish to see Clifden Castle, now in ruin.
The walk is about one mile down the narrow dirt road
through the gatehouse.
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Clifden Castle was built by John
D'Arcy (1785-1839) in a Gothic Revival style in
the early 19th century. John was a man of drive,
energy and determination. He founded Clifden in
1812 and built his castle around the same time.
He was married twice and had fourteen children in
all, leaving one to assume that this was a very
full and noisy family home. |
Following John's death in 1839, the castle and town passed
to his son and heir, Hyacinth. Like so many landlords
in the West of Ireland, Hyacinth became bankrupt as a
result of debts incurred during the Great Famine and in
1850 the town and castle went on sale.
The new owners, the Eyre family from Bath in England,
purchased the town and castle for £21,245. The
Eyre's lived at the castle until the 1920s when the
lands were eventually purchased by the government and
divided out among the tenants.
Sadly, the castle had no outright owner and, in time,
was stripped bare of its slates and timbers and eventually
fell to ruin.
One of the interesting features of this property is
the standing stones. D'Arcy had these stones erected
to imitate other standing stones around Ireland. It
isn't unknown why he did this, but the stones have been
surveyed and it has been determined that they are not
as ancient as D'Arcy would have us believe.
Continue along Sky Road and a short distant up you
will see the ocean. Pull over and you can see the castle
ruins at the bottom of this hill as well as the inlet
from the sea and oyster beds. Sky Road will eventually
come out at the N59 just north of Clifden. Turn left
to join the N59 driving away from Clifden.
A few miles along the N59 you will see the sign for
Kylemore Abbey.
Allow 2-3 hours for this stop.
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Kylemore Abbey was originally built
as Kylemore Castle by Manchester textile tycoon
Michael Henry in the 1860's and was a present to
his beloved wife. They'd fallen in love with the
area when on their honeymoon in 1849 and reportedly
spent £155,000 to buy the land. They spent a further
£250,000 to create a fantastical dream world. Boggy
land was drained and thousands of trees were planted
to serve as a windbreak for the Medieval styled
fruit orchard and exotic gardens, which has just
been |
reopened in 2000 after restoration brought it back to
lord Henry's original design.
Tragedy struck the family when Henry's beloved wife died after contracting
Nile Fever in 1874. In her honor he commissioned the
building of the Gothic Cathedral, which is situated
at the far end of the estate and is accessibly by the
tree-lined footpath. It's an exact replica of Norwich
Cathedral in England. His wife was embalmed and her
body buried in the mausoleum next to the church.
In 1892, Henry's daughter was killed in a freak accident
when her horse threw her into a nearby river. Henry
was so overwhelmed with grief that he put the estate
up for sale in 1894 but was taken off market when the
estate failed to fetch a reasonable price. It was finally
sold to a US tycoon named Zimmerman from Cincinnati,
Ohio as a gift for his daughter, the Duchess of Manchester.
But not long after it was sold to an order of Benedictine
Nuns who still run a private girls school there today.
There are a few rooms open in the abbey, as well as
the styled gardens, tree walk and the church.
When you're ready to continue, turn left at the abbey
entrance and rejoin the N59 now driving north. Follow
this road for about five miles and you will see the
sign for the R344 to Recess. Turn right and join the
R344. This is the mountain pass that takes you between
the Maumturk Mountains (left) and the Twelve Pins (right)
to the N59 at Recess.
This glacial valley is one of the few remaining areas
in Ireland where turf is still cut by hand. You will
see many reeks of sod stacked to dry here and may even
see a man cutting.
When you reach the N59 again at Recess you will see
the sign for the N59 to Galway. Turn left to join the
N59 driving south back towards Galway. You will pass
through Recess then Maam Cross before coming back to
Oughterard, Moycullen and then Galway City.
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